Wednesday, August 7, 2013

8/7/13 Big Sky ... Big State

A lazy morning and a late departure lulled us into a sun-splashed day of highway driving. The immensity of this state is realized when it takes 5 hours to nip a corner of it.

Route 90 was our companion for most of the day. This highway always amazes me because born in Boston, it struggles through Cleveland and Chicago, then hammers across the plains only to open up into a roaring climb through the mountains of the West. At 75 mph, you can make some tracks. Seeing a sign for chain-up areas, we knew we were in for a wild ride of highway switchbacks and steep descents.


Butte, nestled lovingly on a hill rising to a white plateau, begs the question why people settled where they do. In this case it was mining - one of the first copper boom towns in America. As we fly by, the city clings to the mountain, providing contemplation for the road weary traveller.

Past Butte, we took a sidecut onto Route 1. Slow going at first we crawled through Anaconda, another copper town, obeying speed limits that started at 25 and never exceeded 45 for 15 miles. Once out of the speed trap, we accelerated to 70 and rode a perfect lonely road with hills that crested onto pictures of expanses of mountains that only Montana could paint. This route was a real find and yet another road made for 2 wheels. 



Back on 90 at Drummond, we finished the day branching off  North of Missoula onto route 93 toward Kallispell. The day was waning as were many visible signs of population, so a faded wooden sign for the Sunset Motel ( sounds like a cliche') in St. Ignatius, roped us in. The outside of an unremarkable run-down motel did not do justice to the friendly host and newly renovated cowboy themed rooms. Up the road for dinner at the Outwest saloon, where good food and friendly locals supported our love of small towns.



While driving through St. Ignatius we saw  a huge cathedral standing as an anomaly in this tiny settlement. Originally established as a Jesuit mission for Native Americans, it has transformed over years into a school and religious center for the area. 


Cowboys roping calves and wrestling steers bid us goodnight from the walls of our room. Today we were modern riders, crossing the hot prairie with the cool mountains teasing us at every turn. We have kicked off our boots and hunkered down, watching the sunset over the mountains and feeling honored to have been granted such an exemplary day.

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