A cool gentle mist made us appreciate our bulk as we rode along the highway through "Big Horn Sheep Country." Fat chance of seeing sheep along the highway- but there they were, grazing casually in front of a house. U-turning for a photo op, we caught them, a mother and her lamb, nimbly jumping from crevice to crevice on a wall of rock next to the road. Sure footed and proud with her large horns held royally, she danced up the mountain with her child in tow and they climbed out of sight.
Hooking off the highway, we followed Nemo Road, curving through hills and valleys. Stopping by a lake for a rest, we shucked 2 outer layers of clothes as the sun came out and ruled the day. How free I felt!
A short cut to Sturgis, few bikes accompanied us on Nemo and its connecting Vanocker Canyon Rd. but as we pulled into town the dull roar of thousands of "improved" pipes greeted us. Closed to all traffic except motorcycles, a double row of parked bikes filled the center of Main Street for 5 blocks.
Tattoos and boobs roamed the streets and custom paint jobs on many parked bikes continued the theme. Bikes with buffalo heads, bikes with steer horns, even a John Deere bike, cruised up and down the street, so crowded, navigation was difficult. One can only imagine what this street will be like when the rally officially begins!
Parking Magic, we entered the show and wandered the street bemused and entertained. The transformation of this sleepy little South Dakota town during the first week of August every year is a feat to admire. Temporary bars, souvenir hawkers and even Harley dealers fill buildings that have been abandoned for the week or perhaps indefinitely. Next Sunday the sidewalks will roll up as tractor trailers arrive to pack up merchandise, awnings, billboards. Even the old bank in town was a bar!
Off to Deadwood, a legendary mining town of the Wild West where Wild Bill Hickok was shot over his infamous "Deadman's Hand" - Aces over Eights. Casinos, saloons and old hotels line the street raising expectations that a gunfight might erupt at any time. Four wheels must take an alternate route through this town on Bike Week, but because there is no street parking, the bike show is low key.
Through Lead, another charming town built on promises of gold, we caught route 85 to ride the Spearfish Canyon. Carving our way through pine covered walls that darkened the road, limestone rock formations suddenly cut the gloom and opened up a ride that had my neck back and my eyes to the sky for mile after mile. Riding it in reverse, the scenery seemed all new, especially the sky which had started its afternoon thundercloud activity.
Rochford Road cut off in the right direction, so we turned south away from the clouds. A picnic dinner at a well appointed trailhead ( cabin, tables and wood stove, complete with wood) and no company except each other and the sound of the aspens quaking in the wind.
Back on Rochford road, we continued until we reached Rochford, a settlement of a few houses and of course a bar. Here the road split and we asked the locals sitting on the porch of the bar which we should take. Both being dirt, we chose the one that was declared the best and only 9 miles. Not just dirt, the way included switchbacks, climbs and downhill free falls. Challenged and thrilled we dusted our way through to the highway, luckily meeting only three other cars on the way.
Back on the highway, riding with hundreds of other bikes, we sped home to Custer. No German food tonight - I think we have enough stuck to our ribs to last us the trip.
The lonely winding road is our ultimate adventure, but today we ventured into another world. Tomorrow we ride with the rally agin and then on to uncharted territory and our own private event.
On the way to Sturgis
Welcome to Bike Week!
Spearfish Canyon
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